| I mean, look at its history and its architecture. It is a city in its own right, rich and diverse. And come Ramadan, well, festive and lively definitely are among the words that come to my mind. There is a change in the atmosphere in İstanbul that only comes with the appearance of the month where observant Muslims fast from dawn to dusk. A month I feel like none other. Occasionally, I do ask myself, why is İstanbul different when Ramadan comes? Is it the fact that suddenly you see dates sold everywhere? Or is it because people suddenly flock to shops to buy cheese, olives, sucuk, salami and all the things that people like as a part of the iftar? Or is it the fact that there is always a long line at the bakery toward iftar time when people wait patiently to get the freshest and hottest pide, the bread usually eaten during iftar and which is normally produced only in this month? Or is it the fact that when iftar time arrives, you will suddenly see İstanbul traffic almost disappear and restaurants and homes full of people waiting to break their fast together, feasting on all the rich varieties of food that are unique to Turks? And, of course, güllaç is the dessert of the month. What about the sudden appearance of drummers called “davulcu,” with their big double-headed drums, who walk around neighborhoods very early in the morning while beating a variety of rhythms to wake people up for suhoor (the pre-dawn meal before fasting begins)? Yes, these are among the simplest things that change the atmosphere of İstanbul when Ramadan comes. But what I love most is the fact that when I pass mosques, I see them illuminated by “mahya,” colored light bulbs strung between the minarets of mosques, shaped to form words like “Hoş geldin ya şehr-i Ramazan” (Welcome the holy month of Ramadan) or banners hung near the entrance of mosques that say “Oruç tut, sıhhat bul” (Fast and you will find health). Smaller mosques in residential areas may not have mahyas as part of their decoration. Still, they are wonderfully decorated with lights. The lights contrast magnificently with the darkness of the night, as if calling people to rejoice. The big mosques of İstanbul such as the Eyüp Mosque, the Fatih Mosque and the Sultanahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque) are always a sight to see during Ramadan. Such a sight is even more amazing when one is being lulled by the wonderful voice of the imam from the mosque reading the Quran, particularly toward iftar time. One feels so soothed listening to the lullaby of the Quran that one tends to forget the hunger and thirst one may be experiencing. I particularly love it when I see families, toting their youngsters along, going to mosques for the terawih prayer, a special prayer observed only during Ramadan, after the isha (yatsı) prayer. People are rushing to mosques to be closer to God and to be better Muslims and better people. The fact that the İstanbul Metropolitan Municipality has also worked hard to turn the city into an entertainment center during Ramadan makes the month even more special than it already is. There are a lot of activities planned all over İstanbul to keep everyone of all ages entertained from iftar until suhoor. The three most festive areas are Eyüp, Fatih and Sultanahmet. People usually flock to these places in the thousands to enjoy puppet shows, games, food stalls, art, exhibitions, sales and even live performances that go late into the night. These places are always crowded. People want to be there when they break their fast. They want to pray at mosques and enjoy the upbeat delights. As a result, restaurants are filled with customers during iftar. People also usually bring their own food and mats and break their fast in the area surrounding mosques. On weekends in particular, people can barely find space to sit to enjoy the food they bring as people from outside of İstanbul also tend to flock to these places. That is why İstanbulites normally prefer to stay away from these places during weekends. Two Saturdays ago, my family and I went to the Eyüp area for an iftar. Just imagine, we reached Eyüp at 5 p.m., and the traffic was terrible. Everybody was trying to head toward Eyüp. The big parking lot at Feshane was almost full (that is almost three hours before iftar).The inside and the surrounding area of the Eyüp Mosque were totally overcrowded. We had to hold hands in a chain as we walked in order to avoid losing each other. If you talk about overcrowding in a positive way, then yes, Ramadan is the time when this happens continuously in these places. It is a month of carnivals, when families spend time together, worship at holy places and enjoy themselves celebrating in an enthusiastic mood. Iftar tents throughout the city Another prominent feature that shows Ramadan is here in İstanbul is when you see Ramadan tents (iftar çadırı) being set up to provide free meals to those who come. There is usually a very long line where people are given completely free, hot meals in containers. This is in line with the concept of fasting where giving and sharing is among the key concepts of the month. The tents are normally provided by various organizations including the municipal authority and charity organizations such as Kimse Yok Mu. This way, the less fortunate are given a hot meal during Ramadan. No one is to be left hungry. In addition, these organizations also generally help the less fortunate by distributing basic food rations such as rice, wheat, oil, sugar and salt in pre-packed boxes. Even supermarkets sell these food rations during Ramadan as there are individuals who want to buy and distribute the rations themselves to the underprivileged. This is the spirit of Ramadan. This is when the needy put smiles on their faces as they are showered with the basic necessities that make a big difference in their lives. It is a reason to be joyous. But the change of atmosphere in İstanbul during Ramadan is not merely about giving and sharing with the less fortunate or how İstanbul is transformed into a festival of lights, sounds and action. The change is deeper than that. It is about the solidarity in spirit that people experience as they successfully complete their fasting and enjoy it with the people they love, be it inside their own homes or outside in a crowded space. It is also about every Muslim trying to be a better person as they continue with their fasting, trying not to succumb to their desires. It is also about how during this celebration of Ramadan, businesses flourish, which leads to a better economy for a better living and overall prosperity for everyone. Yes, this is Ramadan. Man or woman, old or young, privileged or underprivileged, this is a festival of life. So let's celebrate. |
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